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Do it yourself frame kit with components
(photo courtesy FirePitOutfitter.com)

Kool Furniture for your Fire Pit

By now, you've built your fire pit and you are wondering what kind of seating are you going to put around this beauty. Someone whose opinion I really respect told me about Stone 2 Furniture. That someone is my wife, Mrs. FirePitStarter, and, though I value her opinion, she is not above a good joke. She wanted me to believe there is an artist, Dwayne Cranford, here in Colorado that makes chairs, tables, benches and other items out of stone. I thought very pretty, but oh my aching buns. I was mistaken. This artistry is both beautiful and comfortably functional.

This is foreveriture. Pass them down to your children and to their children. Dwayne Cranford describes his work this way. "At first I made tables, then simple chairs and today I have a full line of products that are made for indoor and outdoor use. I believe that everything should be built to last. That is why I have put the engineering and development into my products so that they will last a lifetime and beyond."Quoting the website, "This is furniture like no other furniture on earth. It requires no maintenance and with stands the test of time. Enduring beauty that is rock solid from start to finish." Who else dares make such a claim?


Yes ladies and gentlemen, that is an arrow through the stone tabletop. These are just a few of the examples of Mr. Cranford's work. Take a tour of the Stone 2 Furniture website for more interesting examples of his artwork and then imagine these unique pieces around your fire pit.

Whatever you do, don't pass up the chance to enter the Ugly Patio Furniture contest. You could win your own stone furniture worth $4,100. Now, how's that for kool?

The Crossfire ignition system

The Crossfire is a relative new product on the market. Handmade and thoroughly tested, this match lit or remote operated unit is unique. Burners, until now, were simply bent perforated pipes with a central manifold. Gas entering the manifold is distributed throughout the rest of the burner via the cross pieces or spokes. The burners are called fire rings regardless of the burner's shape.

The Crossfire uses a unique port system to produce flame for either natural gas or propane, as you can see in the above photo, Each port is shaped, tuned, and positioned to produce a different overall look. By shaping, tuning and adding additional air to the gas, the manufacturer, Warming Trends, causes the resulting yellow flame to swirl. Standard systems are 24", 30", and 36". Like the traditional electronic ignition kit, the Crossfire is built to be a single unit supported by the pan. The pan itself can also be either flat or bowl style. The pan itself can be ordered with variations in diameter to fit your design. Since pan sizes can vary, the main difference between the three systems are the number of ports. There are five ports in the 24", twelve ports in the 30", and 15 ports in the 36" systems. The maximum gas required for each system is 60k BTU, 108k BTU, and 180k BTU respectively. This is a significant, economic saving when it comes to operating the Crossfires over the electronic ignition systems of 150k BTU for the 24" and the 30", and 300k BTU for the 36".

There is significant heat transfer between the fire ring and the pan and, thus, between the pan and the valve box below for the electronic ignition systems. If the valve box overheats the valve will shut down and the pit flame will go out. Therefore, the warranty on the electronic ignition kits require 18 square inches (36 sq in total) of ventilation on opposite sides of the fire pit below the unit to help dissipated heat. There is very little heat transfer to the Crossfire pan, so ventilation is unnecessary.

The Crossfire has another distinct advantage when it comes to powering the system. The smaller system (the 24 inch) can be run from two D cell batteries. There is no need to run a separate 115 volt electrical circuit. I am told the batteries will last one to two years. I'll accept that it is possible for the batteries to last more than one year, but I can't quite accept two. In any case, just leave enough slack in the flex connector and all you have to do is lift the unit out of the pit, replace the batteries, put the unit back in, rearrange the lava rock, and you are back in business. Cool point #2: The manufacturer will customize a double unit just for you. It is possible to place two systems on one pan and control it from one remote control, and do it from a 120k BTU gas supply. That will give you 10 ports of swirling 18 inch flame in your fire pit.

The Crossfire is a sturdy device to consider when you want remote control of your fire pit ignition. Legend has it that the manufacturer uses a leaf blower to snuff out the flame in order to test the unit's ability to reignite. The Crossfire also comes in a match lit option. You can have the Crossfire's unique flame without having to pay for the sophisticated electronics. This is great for residential use because, usually, the only time the pit will be lit is when the homeowners are actually with it.

For more information about the Crossfire, visit Fire Pit Outfitter.

Photos curtesy of Warming Trends

Next post: Kool furniture!

The Burner Ring Style Electronic Ignition Kit

Hearth Products Controls electronic ignition kit

Electronic ignition kits are the ultimate in elegance. Just imagine starting your fire pit with just a flip of a wall switch or squeeze the remote control. The unit consists of a burner, a pan, sensor assembly, and a valve box containing the valve and the control electronics. Configured for either natural gas or propane, a choice of valves will deliver either 150k BTU or 300k BTU to the burner. The 150k valve is suitable for burners up to 24 inches in diameter. The 30 inch burner can use either. Burners larger than 30 inches produce better flames with a 300k BTU valve. (The bigger the fire ring the smaller the flame at the same pressure.) The pan that supports the fire ring can be either flat or bowl style depending on you design.

Built as a single unit, the electronic ignition kit is designed to be suspended from the pan lip. The manufacturer requires a 2 inch gap between the bottom of the valve box and the bottom of the fire pit. This is to keep the valve box above possible standing water. The valve box is water resistant, not water proof.

There is heat transfer between the fire ring and the valve box. If the valve box overheats, the valve will shut down and your flame will go out. The manufacturer insists (for warranty purposes) on 36 square inches of ventilation space (18 sq. in. on opposite sides of the pit) in the walls of the fire pit to avoid heat build up around the valve box. You can split up the ventilation space so that it fits the look of you fire pit, as long as the total is still 36 sq. in.

The electronic ignition kit operates on 115vac regular commercial house voltage. That is how the wall switch would work. Just install a wall switch in a convenient place and run the electrical wire out to the pit. The electronic ignition kit comes with a 3-prong plug. Some people cut that off and wire the unit directly. That saves on making an outlet type connect for the plug. Either way work just fine.

Remote operation uses a receiver in the pit. Its sole purpose is to interrupt or cut through power to the electronic ignition kit. The 3-prong plug goes into the receiver and the receiver has its own 3-prong plug. Again this can be cut off and wired directly to the electrical wire.

Another serious benefit is the unit's fail safe. If the flame goes out, the sensor will detect this condition and signal the valve to close and stop delivery of gas to the burner. This is especially important in any commercial use. Raw natural gas or propane uncontrollably flowing into the air is extremely dangerous.

As always, I highly recommend the addition of a manual shut off valve at the fire pit in the gas line before the electronic ignition device for safety. I have never heard of one of these units flowing gas out of control, but anything can happen. Saving $30-$40 by skipping the valve is just not worth the risk. One drawback to using a valve in this case is that you cannot use the valve to control the height of the flame. Restricting gas flow to this electronic ignition system also starves the pilot, and it will seem that the flame will go out inexplicably.

The ability to turn your fire pit on and off remotely is the ultimate in coolness. Aside from minor problems; ventilation and mounting the unit, the electronic ignition kit delivers an excellent flame for the appropriate burner for your fire pit.

Update: The manufacturer, Hearth Products Controls, has redesigned this device. The sensor module is subject to intense heat positioned inside the outer ring. The bowl pan is now one size larger so that the sensor module can be mounted on the outside of the fire ring. This will reduce the amount of heat and extend the life of the module. When considering the electronic ignition kit's size for your pit you must check to see if the larger bowl will fit. That should not be a problem if you have observed the 4 inch rule (the minimum distance between the fire ring and the inner edge of the capstones. Using an 18 inch fire ring as an example, the bowl pan is now 25 inches (for the next sized ring plus one inch, 25 inches in diameter). The 4 inch rule is 4" + 4" + 18" = 26". You have an inch to spare to place the unit within you fire pit.

Next post - The Crossfire

The Push Button Ignition System

Match lit is the simplest approach to initiating fire in the fire pit. Flick a grill lighter and turn on the gas. There is no fail safe though. If the flame goes out, gas will continue to pour from the fire ring. This is a concern to a lesser degree for a residential installation because there is usually supervision nearby. It would be a waste of personnel at a commercial site (hotel, spa, golf course, etc.) to assign someone just to watch a fire pit. Local building codes probably require a fail safe system at a commercial site anyway. Not using a flame fail safe system would be irresponsible endangerment of life and property, and then there is the consequential liability.

The push button ignition kit uses a 9 volt battery to provide power to the spark which ignites the gas to the burner. A sensor is positioned in the flame from of the burner holes. The sensor will signal the valve to close when it detects a loss of heat and the gas will cease to flow. Standard sizes are 18” (12” burner), 24” (18” burner), and 30” a (24” burner).

The push button assembly is the silver box on the right of this picture. This must be mounted on the inside with an opening in the side of the fire pit to access the ignition button. The push button box has no bottom. To replace the battery, lift the burner assembly and reach under the box from the inside. This requires a flex line connection between the push button ignition kit and the emergency shut off valve with reasonable slack.

For a fail safe burner system, the push button ignition kit is reliable and comparatively cheap. The sensor will detect the loss of heat if the flame goes out and will close the valve, thereby preventing gas (LP or NG) from being wildly released into the fire pit area.

Next blog: The Burner Ring Style Electronic Ignition Kit

Match lit is not the only way to fire the ring

The match lit method of igniting a gas fire pit fire ring is just what it sounds like.  Strike a match (better to use the longer grill lighters to increase the distance between your hand the igniting flame) and turn on the gas.  As discussed in the last blog, there some drawbacks to a match lit gas fire pit.  The most important is the lack of a flame control failsafe.  If an unattended gas fire pit flame goes out, there is nothing to cut the gas flow.  Gas has not fulfilled its destiny until it becomes flame.  Therefore, gas will seek an ignition agent, like that cigarette in someone’s hand, to become greater than itself.

In its simplest form, a flame failsafe is a valve and a sensor.  The sensor tip sets in the burner flame giving assurance to the valve that the gas is, indeed, burning.  Should the flame go out, the sensor quickly cools and signals the valve, “Hey!  Got gas.  Don’t got flame.  Shut down.”

Match lit gas fire pits are just fine for residential applications.  People generally don’t light the fire pit unless they intend to enjoy the warm spectacle.  Come on.  We’re turning money into fire here.  My father would get on us kids for leaving the TV on when no one was in the room.  “The furniture doesn’t need to be entertained.”  Same idea.

Flame control for public applications is an absolute must for liability reasons.  The cost to a hotel, spa, or golf course to pay to station someone at the fire pit for the burn duration is much more than building the fire pit using a failsafe system.  Ignition is either by using a hand held remote control or a wall switch.  Remote controls tend to walk off by themselves.  A wall switch works much better for public uses.  Unless a fire pit is intended to be on all the time, I suggest adding a timer to the wall switch.  This will help keep costs of operating the fire pit down and diminish the need for constant surveillance by paid personnel.

The alternatives to the match lit system are: battery powered, push button grill, electronic ignition kits, and Crossfire.

Match Lit – good/bad

The most common method of igniting a fire pit is to flick the grill lighter and turn on the gas. Whoosh! Flame. There are a couple of concerns of which you should be aware. First and foremost, there is no failsafe for a match lit gas fire pit and should always be attended. If the flame goes out gas will continue to flow through the burner. When the gas finally finds a proper ignition source, the whole neighborhood will suddenly know about a problem at your house. I recommend against using the match lit method for public use, such as hotels, spas, golf courses, etc because of liability issues. (More about electronic ignition systems, private and public use, later.)

The other concern is with larger burners. There is no problem that I am aware of lighting a 24” or smaller fire ring; but I wonder about lighting a 30” or larger burner. The 30” burner may have a 150k or 300k BTU supply. Fire rings larger than 30 inches (36, 42, and 48 inches) will certainly have 300k BTU or more gas supplies. That might make for a different WHOOSH. As explained in the very first blog entry, the larger the burner ring, the shorter the flame. That is because the gas is spread over a wider area. When the valve is opened, gas is fed to the hub and passed outward to the rim with holes in the piping along the way. What is it like to ignite that much gas from one place on the outer ring? Please let me know if you have match lit one of these larger rings. Did you reach in with a lighter or did you stand back and toss a torch? How did/do you get your fire pit lit?

Next blog – Electronic ignition systems

Mixing Fire and Water

Mixing fire and water always makes for an interesting project. Rick wants a decorative fire pit with a statue inside the fire ring. Water would spring out the top of the statue and cascade down its sides. We must consider how to protect each element from the other, the flame height to the statue, how to mount the statue, and how to design the fire ring.

First of all let's take a look at the statue. It is 6 inches at the widest point toward the middle and is 14 inches high. Rick would like the flame to be roughly the same height as the statue. We can adjust that with the ball valve at the pit as long as we have enough gas in the first place. Normally, I request at least a 4 inch space between the burner and the inner edge of the capstones. Since the statue sits inside the fire ring and is surrounded by heat, 4 inches is probably not enough even with water pouring over the statue sides. The water from a closed system will probably overheat as well.

Fire pit burners come in standard sizes from 6 inches to 48 inches in 6 inch increments. Custom burners are pretty pricey. A statue with a 6 inch diameter inside a 12 inch ring leaves only 3 inches of space between the statue and the outer ring. The next size up is an 18 inch ring. Six inches is a safer bet; but an 18 inch ring has two concentric rings, an inner ring at 9 inches. The ring still has to be modified to work with this set up. Luckily, the inner holes and the cross member gas holes can be welded closed for around $50. That way the hub gas feed can still be used without modification. This burner will also consume less gas because the inner ring is disabled which will give a higher flame at the same BTU level.

The only other consideration is the depth of the fire ring inside the pit. It is recommended that the ring set below the top edge of the pit by 4 to 8 inches to protect the flame from wind. Rick will have to decide how that placement will affect the statue presentation.

As you can see, the more elements you bring into the fire pit the more complex the design becomes. Everything is related to everything else. Always, always consider the size fire ring you want and the amount of gas you can supply before you put the rest of the pit design together. The other "always" is to have a qualified plumber determine how to get the proper amount of gas to the pit. I have had too many tell me how the gas line is embedded in the patio concrete after they discover the line is too small for the distance and the flow they want. You will be successful and have fewer reasons for expensive rework if you consider these at the beginning of your project.